Week 3
Week 3 - Stage 13 , Sunday 20th May
Aullene to refuge San Pietro di Verde via Cozzano (80kms)
Total Ascent - 2,615 metres
Total Descent - 2,163 metres
Chatted with the owner of the chambre d'hote over breakfast. Mentioned that his horse, in the field across the road, had toppled over a wall during the night. Pleased to say, with the help from several of his neighbours, the horse was returned to the field from whence it came unharmed.
Ready to leave Aullène by 9:00am and straight into the first climb of the day. A really good, steady 13kms climb. At the top, I meet a couple from Toulon. They have been coming to Corsica, on and off, for over thirty years and each time visit during a different season each year. They drive their camper van across France to Marseille, with bicycles strapped on the back, take the 9 hour ferry to Ajaccio and head-off where their fancy takes them. I have to admit to being just a tad jealous!
My reward after the climb is a descent through beautiful countryside with the bright yellow broom in full bloom. At the 26kms mark I stop on a small stone bridge to take some pictures of a waterfall. Although it's nearing the end of spring the river is flowing fast. A lot more melted snow still to come down from the mountain peaks.
Stopped for lunch at Noon in Cozzano with 32kms on the clock. Traditional 'Corsican fayre'; hamburger and chips! The owner informs me that in Ghisoni there is only a gite d'etape called 'Bella Vista'. I think the owner for the information and pay the bill. At 12:35pm I start to climb and 40 minutes later I'm still climbing. Since lunchtime the cloud has been building so I stop to change my sunglasses for clear glasses. Both the climbs today are really good - gentle and long.
I peel off the road for an iced tea and a Mars Bar at the refuge San Pietro di Verde. The refuge is set amongst a mature forest of Laricio pine trees, beech and firs. There are several small chalets, hidden between the trees, each one can accommodate four people. I have to say this place is really lovely and so quiet. At this moment the sun comes out to confirm my opinion! I've only seen two other people since arriving. A couple of hikers; one is English and the other Canadian, from Quebec. They are on Stage 11 of the GR20. The GR 20 is a trail which runs, pretty much, North West to South East across the Island. It is 180 kms long with 12,000m of elevation gain and is considered "One of the top trails in the World'.
The owner of the refuge, Jean-Marc, is very chatty and friendly. "Do you intend staying here the night or continuing on your journey?" He asks. He can see that I'm tempted to stay. "If so then I will make sure to prepare enough meat and vegetables for three hungry people instead of two and stock the fridge with beers!". A simple decision in the end.
I decide to stay in the communal chalet and choose the lower bunk nearest the door. Leaning the bike against the chalet and removing the panniers, I notice the rear tyre is deflated. The first puncture since my journey began. I certainly can't moan at that, considering the total distance - to date - is 880kms. Outside the chalet is a picnic bench - perfect place to mend the puncture then clean and lubricate the moving parts!.
Once this is all done and my clothes washed and hanging out to dry, I listen to my iPod and study tomorrow's ride. It dawns on me that I'm on the 'homeward' leg. I've cycled around the North of Island, down the West - with minor excursions to the into the mountains and on to Bonafacio in the South. From there I cycled North East and back up into the mountains. Tomorrow I'm will be heading due North towards Corte in the heart of the Island. However, that's tomorrow. Today's ride will be especially remembered; The climb to the Col de Verde (1.289m) this afternoon was lovely. Hardly a vehicle passed me - either way - and the Foret de Piattone was beautiful - pine trees virtually the entire route.
Time to eat so I stroll over to the bar/restaurant. Jean-Marc has lit the large log fire which is now blazing away. It certainly seems a little colder this evening. Not surprising, it is still Spring and the San Pietri Verde refuge is located at over a 1,000 metres above sea level. Our host prepares a very hearty meal for the three guests, all washed down with a couple of beers. A perfect end to what has certainly been a lovely day!
